Brenda and Brent - Trip Diary

Malaysia

Dec 17 to Dec 23, 2003.


We travelled from Hua Hin to Malaysia on the train. We had already bought the tickets for us, but were told we could not get tickets for the bicycles until an hour before departure. Well, we got there and were told that the train only had a baggage car as far as the Malaysian border. Gulp!

We bought freight tickets to there, assuming we would be able to cope when the time came. I raced around for an hour at the border, but once again discovered that if you present people with a problem and sit back and wait, they will solve it. We ended up with our bikes on the platform of the last car and headed into Malaysia.

We arrived at Butterworth and headed for the bus station, again being assured by the ticket seller that they bus could handle bicycles. Faced with a driver who did not do baggage, we stood around looking pitiful and the ticket agent told us to just stick them in the last few seats. Not easy, but we got all our stuff to Ipoh!

The modern bird photography system called Digiscoping was developed in the town of Ipoh in Malaysia. Digiscoping uses small digital cameras and standard birding telescopes to produce excellent bird pictures.

I follow a email list that was started by a few of those people to share their bird pictures. I sent an email to one of the Ipoh digiscopers, Ooi Beng Yean, telling him we would be in Malaysia and asking him for local places to look at birds. I emailed again just before we left Thailand and he told me to phone when we got to town.

Well, we checked into the Station Hotel (once a great building, has seen some bad times, now owned by a hotel group with big plans that might see it a great building again) and called him. He took over from there.

They decided the place to bird was Fraser's Hill, a mountain area about 200 km south of Ipoh. Since we were on bicycles and since buses and trains would be difficult, Lawrence Poh - the man who discovered Digiscoping and popularized it - said that we would have to take one of his cars and drive there.

They also suggested that the place to stay was a narrowing in the road on the way up the mountain called The Gap.

This is the Malaysian rest house at the Gap. Like Sri Lanka, there used to be rest houses all over the country intended for use by government officials during their official travels around the country. It is definitely a holdover from the colonial era. This is one of the last rest houses in Malaysia - its days may be numbered.

It has 8 rooms and a restaurant. No way it make sense economically - it is just too small. Fun to stay at for a couple of days while I birded the mountains.

Bukit Fraser is the new name for Fraser's Hill. Fraser was a smuggler during the tin mining heyday of area. Since then it has been converted into a resort area - peaking, I suspect, about 30 years ago. There are a number of medium sized resorts - up to 100 rooms each. It was not very busy when we were there - perhaps Malaysia is changing its idea of what a resort area is like. We were there in the middle of the Malaysian school holidays, so it should have been busy.

The mountain top is a jungle - a rain/cloud forest - that includes monkeys and apes. The clouds were sweeping into the area most of the day. Perhaps there are better seasons for tourists. Not bad time for birders though.

Back in Ipoh, Beng decided we may as well stay a his home rather than a hotel, putting in his daughter's room. When his daughter unexpectedly showed up a couple of days early (she is in medical school in Sydney, Australia) she was sent off to a relative's place! These are very generous people.

Beng took us to a cave temple near his home. Cave temples (where have we seen those before) are pretty popular in the area. The caves have always been there, but recently the idea of putting an outdoor temple into caves has caught on - in a commercial sense as well as with the people.

Aside from being a cave and a buddhist temple, it is also a good location for birds. That is Beng with the tripod leading Brenda through the cave temple. Beng was going to show us digiscopting techniques with the local specialty birds. Unfortunately, a helicopter had been delivering parts to build a new electrical transmission tower in the area and there were no birds!

I did get to see some birds though when Beng and his friend Mr. Chu took me on a birding tour of the Cameron Highlands another mountain birding area nearer Ipoh. A great birding time for me. The birds and the friendly people in Malaysia were wonderful.

On the other side of our visit was the food court near Beng's house in Ipoh.

A fast food court with 35 different cooks all competing for your dining dollar. You got a table, walked around to the various stalls and ordered your dinner, paid, then waited for it to be delivered. The regulars were able to order a meal by combining food from several stalls. We made do with Chicken Rice from one stall and Guiness from another.

Aside from the variety of food, it was interesting to see a very different style of restaurant.

This is Siew Lan, Beng's wife, holding her daughter's dog and seeing her husband's friends off on their way to Kuala Lumpur and the airport. Siew Lan was an excellent hostess!
Here is a shot of the Kuala Lumpur sky train/mono-rail. It runs right down the middle of one of the main roads into town - roads in which traffic moves very slowly. Unlike Bangkok, it is just above road level. Wasn't there something like that at Expo 86 in Vancouver?
We spent an hour going into and out of downtown Kuala Lumpur so we could spend 15 minutes at the twin towers - the tallest buildings in the world.

While tall, they do not dominate the surrounding area since the bases are actually quite small.

They are just a little taller than Brenda in fact!

Here a full length view!

Malaysia

Because of the generosity of Beng and Lawrence, we did no cycling in Malaysia. As a result, it is hard to compare Malaysia to other parts of our trip. We did not have to find accomodation each night, or find restaurants and work our way through the menu. We did not have to struggle up hills against the rain and wind in the dark on our bicycles, wondering if there would be a hotel in the next town. (Brenda's favourite part of travelling seems to be solving these types of problems.)

The people we did meet were friendly and very pleasant. We did not have a lot of trouble making ourselves understood, even when the people spoke little English.

Malaysia seems hillier and more treed than Thailand, something we would have to consider if we decide to do another cycling trip in the area. I suspect is it better suited to other forms of transport.

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